FABRICS
Economic Principles
and their Application to Business
Types of Fabric :
There are 4 kinds of
fabric as ;Woven, non woven , Knitted & Braid .
Yarn is the raw
material of woven ,Knitted & Braid fabric .
But fibre is the raw
material of Non-woven fabrics .
Woven Fabric :
Woven fabric is the
interlacment of yarn done by warping & wefting.There are two sets of yarn
are used for woven fabric .When interlacing,two sets of yarn create 90 angle
between then .It is a broad & narrow fabric .Woven process is-Warp -ends & waft -picks
-Filling .
Example :Sari ,Bed cloth
etc .
KNITTED FABRIC :
By interloping
(intermeshing/interlocking/interknotting) one or one set yarn knitted fabric is
made . It is a broad & narrow fabric .
Example:T-shrt , Under
wear .
NON – WOVEN FABRIC :
By
using only fabric (not yarn) non-woven fabric made .By giving pressure heat or
free needle stitching to the fiber laps this non-woven fabric is made .It is a
broad & narrow fabric .
Example:Blanket ,Ruff
fabric etc .
BRAID FABRIC :
Braid fabric is made
by diagonally interlace meant of minimum three sets of yarn.It is a narrow
fabric .
Example :Shoe ,Lace etc
.
Flow Chart
of weaving
Warp Yarn Weft Yarn
Spinning
Winding Cone/Cheese Spinning winding pirn/cone
bobbin
Bobbin
(pirn
winding/cone winding)
Cone Warping Prebeam/Back Conventional Modern
Shuttle loom Shuttlessloom
Prebeam Sizing Warp beam
Warp beam Drawing Weavers beam &Denting
Looming Weaving
N.B. Sizing means give
adhesive material to yarn loom is weaving machine.
Winding :
The word winding means wrap round
roll up .
Package
Winding
Warp
1.Cone
1.Cross winding
2.Cheese
2.Parallel winding
3.Spopol
Weft
4.Pirn
3.Near parallel winding
5.Cop
6.Flanged bobbin
WARPING :
The process of winding yarn
from cone/cheese on the beam is called warping .
Processing :
1.Yarn guide
2.Tention devise
3.Stop motion
Types of warping :
1.Sectional warping
2.Direct warping
FABRIC SPECIFICATION :
EPI * PPI
*Fabric width
Warp count * Weft count
EPI =Ends per Inch (For WARP)
PPI =Picks Per Inch (For WEFT)
EPI means how much warp
yarn per inch .
PPI means how much weft
yarn per inch .
SIZING
SIZING :
Sizing is the process in which
the warp yarn are coated by the adhesive material .
Sizing Ingredients :
1.Stach material
2.Softener
3.Anti mildew
agents
Objects of yarn sizing :
@ To increase weav ability
@ To increase strength
@ To increase elongation
@ To increase hairiness
DRAWING :
To draw the warp yarn throw
the healdeye according to the degine.
DENTING :
To draw the warp yarn throw the
reed.
LOOM
LOOM :
Loom is a machine/Device by which
the fabric is production .
Classification of loom
........................................
Loom
 |
Hand loom
Power loom |
1.Primitive/verticalloom
Throw shuttle
loom Shuttle loom Shuttleless loom
(modern
loom)
2.Pit loom
1.Projectile loom
Ordinary loom Auto loom
2.Repier loom
Fly shuttle
loom
3.Airjet loom
3.Frame fly shuttle
loom
4.Waterjet loom
4.Chittaranjon loom 5.Multiphase
loom
5.Hattersle loom
@
Common motor
@
Individual motor
LOOM MOTION
 |
Primary motion secondary motion Tertiary motion
1.Shedding 1.Let – off 1.Warp stop
motion
@Tappet -ve let-off 2.Weft stop motion
@Dobby +ve let-off 3.Reed motion
@Jacquard
4.Temple motion
2.Picking 2.Take-up 5.Weft motion
@Over pick -ve take-up
@Under pick +ve take-up
@Modern pick
3.Beating/Beat-up
@Single beat-up @ 5 wheel
@Variable beat-up @ 6 wheel
@Multiple beat-up @ 7 wheel
“Basic Weave structure”
There are
3 kinds of weaving-
1.
Plain
2.
Twill
3.
Satin/steen
Satin/steen
Warp up over weft weft
up over warp
Structure :Warp and weft
are interlacement is called structure .
We can represent a
degine by below :-
1.Weave plan
2.Drafting plan
3.Lifting plan
4.Denting plan
Features of plain weave
;-
@ The plain weave is
obtained by raising all even numbered at one pick and raising all the odd
numbered ones at the other pick .
@The repeat contains 2
ends and 2 pick.
@Both siders of the
fabric are idential .
@It comprise a high
production of the total out put of the woven fabric .
@Made from all kind of
textile raw materials and yarns i.e cotton,linen,jute,man made fibres,both spun
and continuous filament .
@Threads interlacing in
alternate order .
@Each thread gives
manimum amount of support to the adjacent threads .
@Textile is stranger and
tirmer then any other ordinary cloth .
@Two heald shafts are sufficient to produce plain
weave when the number of ends/cm is large 4 or 6 heald shafts are used
with skip draft.
Derivatives of plain weave .
Regular warp rib
Warp rib
weave Irregular warp rib
1.Rib weave
Regular weft rib 
Weft rib
weave Irregular weft rib
2.Matt weave
i.Regular matt weave .
ii.Irregular matt weave .
iii.Stitched matt weave .
iv.Fancy matt weave .
Note :Rib effect :@ By using thick yarn .
@By weaving .
Comparison
of warp and weft rib .
|
Warp
|
Weft
|
|
i.Based on
plain weave .
ii.warp yarn used as single thread .
iii.Weft yarn used as group/Bundle.
@If regular warp rib .then number of
weft yarn is equal in the bundle .
@If irregular warp rib the number of
weft yarn is unequal in the bundle .
iv.Weft way rib effect is produced .
v.Number of warp yarn in the repeat
size always 2 .
vi.Rib width is depend on number of weft in the
bundle .
|
i.Based on plain weave .
ii.weft yarn used as single thread .
iii.Warp yarn used as group/Bundle.
@If regular weft rib .then number of
warp yarn is equal in the bundle .
@If irregular weft rib the number of
warp yarn is unequal in the bundle .
iv.Wwarp way rib effect is produced .
v.Number of weft yarn in the repeat
size always 2 .
vi.Rib width is depend on number of warp in the
bundle .
|
TWILL WEAVE
.............................
@ A twill weave is characterized by diagonal ribs
(twill line) on the face of the fabric .
@ These twill lines are produced by letting all
warp ends interlace in the same way but displacing the interlacing points of
each ends by one pick relative to that of the previous end .
@ A weave that repeats on there or more ends and
picks .
@ Twill lines are formed on both sides of cloth .
@ The direction of diagonal lines on the face side
of cloth is opposite to that on the wrong side coinciding respectively with the
weft and warp floats on the other side .
@ If warp floats predominate on one side of the
cloth weft floats will predominate in
the same proportion on the other side .
#
CLASSIFICATION OF TWILL WEAV .
i.According to the direction of twill line .
-
z twill
-
s twill
ii.According to the face yarn .
-
warp face twill
-
weft face twill
-
Double face twill
iii.According to the nature of twill line .
-Simple warp or weft twill line
-Expandel twill
-Multiple twill
Plain Weave :Most common and simplest
woven structure where each warp yarn or ends runs over pick and under the next
pick and each weft yarn or pick runs over one end and under the next .
Ornamentation of plain cloth :
@To colour the warp yarn we may get a staip .
@To colour the weft yarn we may get a staip .
@To colour the warp and weft yarn we get a design
.
@To change the density of the warp .
@ To change the density .
@To change the tension of the fabric .
@Using fancy yarn .
@And decorating weave .
Twill weave :Weave pattean where the
interlacing of the yarns show a diagonal pattern on the cloth .
Classification of twill weave :
1.According to the direction of twill line :
-----z twill 2
----------- z
1
-----s twill 1
------------ s
2
2.According to the face yarn .
----warp
face twill 3 5
--------- ; ----------
1
2
----- weft face twill 2
---------
4
-----Double face twill 3
Move
number:
Division of
the sumation of formula number in two part it the sumation can’t
Divide by
any one of them.In this process which number are found that number is called
move number /displacement number or step value .
Law of
satin weave :
Only one bending in each warp & weft yaen means bending is equal of
yarn .
Irregular
satin :
Which repeat size has no move number is called irregular satin .
Only
4&6 is irregular satin .
Regular satin :
The repeat
size which has move number is regular satin .
N.B:One is not a move number .
Fabric constrution /specification :
Balance Cloth :
Equation of EPI&PPI of fabric & equation of warp count &weft
count indicates balance cloth .
30 * 30
Sample construction :
-------------- *45’’
80 * 80
Unbalance
cloth : The cloth which has difference between EPI,PPI & between warp count
Weft count is called unbalance cloth . It has two class as for bellows .
Warp
face :The fabrics which has density in warp yarns and the warp yarns are finer
but weft yarns are coutrser is called warp face cloth .
60 * 20
Sample construction --------------- *45”
120
* 50
Weft face :
The fabric which has density in weft yarns & finer but warp yarns
are coutrser is called weft face cloth .
20 *
60
Sample
construction --------------- *56”
45 *
45
Ornamentation of plan cloth :
Without changing in basic weave we can decorated fabric by this process
.
1.We can
make chack cloth by using coloured yarn in warp or weft .
2.We can
make chack cloth by using various
coloured yarn both warp & weft sides
.
3.Byusing
different counted yarn in warp 7 weft .
4.By
changing warp density .
5.By
changing weft density .
6.Byusing
spicial types of reed .
7.By using
tenson beem .In this process we must use crave yarn on highly twisted yarn .As sear sucker fabric
8.By using
spicial types of yarn as like .Jorjet .
9.Byusing
fanicy yarn .as khaddar .
10. Warp Weft
Cotton
Jute
Cotton
polyester
polyester Nilon
Rib
: Rib is an effect .We can grow rib effect in fabric by using
thick yarn or by weaving .Straight & fat line of cord fabric is an example
of rib effect .
@ There
are two kinds of plane weave derivating like rib & matt.
Properties
of warp rib :
1.Its
based on plan weave .
2.Warp way
rib effect –
-Bundle of thread
of weft .
-Warp single thread
.
3.Weft way
rib effect –
-Bundle of thread
of warp.
-Weft single thread
.
Derivatives of twill weave ;
1. Zig
zag twill weave .
2. Herring bone twill weave .
3. Diamond
design twill weave
4. Elongation
twill weave
5. Broken
twill weave .
6. Re
–arranged twill weave .
7. Diaper
twill weave .
8. Stepped
twill weave .
9. Shadded
twill weave .
10. Combind
twill weave
Zig zag ; 1.Hrizantal zig zag .
2.Virtical zig zag .
Herring bond
;1.Horizantal herring bond .
2.Vertical herring bond
.
Rearranged twill :1.Cork
screw design .
2.Odd cork screw .
3.Even number cork
scrrew .
Stepped twill:1.Same
directin .
i.Warp way step .
ii.Weft way step .
iii.Warp &Weft both way
.
2.Opposite direction .
Shadded twill :1.Single
shedded twill .
2.Double shadded twill
.
N.B ;Twill base sateen base .
Colour & Weave
Effect :1.Simple colour & weave effect .
2.Compound colour & weave effect .
Order of colouring
:1.Simple order of colouring .
i.For warp
simple Warping .
ii.For weft
simple wefting .
2.Compound order
of colouring .
i.For warp
compound Warping .
ii.For weft
compound wefting .
Example :50%
2:5+50%3:4
3.Regular
order of colouring .
4.Irregular
order of colouring .
Cord
effect : By using thick yarn .
By weaving .
-Rib weave .
-Bed
ford cord weave .
-Pique weave .
Types of
bed ford cord ; 1.Plain face bed ford
cord .
2.Wadded bed ford cord .
3.Twill face bed ford cord .
4.Bed
ford cord asranged with alternate picks .
5.Crepon bed fort cord .
Plane face
bed ford cord : 1.The surface of cloth is ruff .
2.Grew cord effect .
3.Weft yarn is always 4 .
Sunken
line :The nerrow & flat area between two cord is called sunken line .
Wadded
thread : The thread which low twisted lower quality and thick yarn .
Why we use
wadded thread ?
Ans : 1.To
increase the prominency of effect of a
bed ford cord .
2.To creat heavy cloth .
3.To increase the softness of a cloth .
4.To increase the thickness of a cloth .
Extra
thread design
If extra
thread used as a warp thread is called extra warp design .
Extra warp
design – 2sets of warp yarn ground +extra
One set of
weft yarn only ground .
If extra
thread used as a weft thread is called extra weft design .
Extra weft
design - one set of warp yarn only
ground .
2 sets of
weft yarn ground + extra .
Crape Weave
: By using crape yarn .
By crape weaving .
1.Sateen base weave
.
2. By reversing .
3.By super imposing
.
4.Plain base weave .
Craped
yarn : Craped yarn is a highly twisted filament yarn .
Honey Comb
Weave :1.Ordinary honey comb .
2.Brighton
Honey comb .
PATTERN CHART
 |
 Orderof
Types of
weave
|
Simple weave
|
Stripe weave
|
Chack weave
|
|
Simple warping
& Smple wefting
|
Simple pattern
|
Strip pattern
|
Check pattern
|
|
Compound warping
& Sample wefting
|
Strpe pattern
|
Strip pattern
|
Check pattern
|
|
Simple warping &
Compound wefting
|
Cross-over pattern
|
Check pattern
|
Check pattern
|
|
Compound warping
&compund wefting
|
Check pattern
|
Check pattern
|
Check pattern
|
Yarn count or numbering system :
Indirect
system : Weigth ---------- Fixed
Length ----------Variable
Indirect
system : English count system or cotton system (Ne)
Matric system
(Nm)
Wollen system
Worsted system
System Weigth Length
Ne 1 lbs ? * 840 yds/hank
Nm 1 KG ? * 1000 M
Wallen 1
lbs ? *
256 yds
Worsted 1
lbs ?
*560 yds
L * w
Indirect
system aar formula : N=---------
W * l
N =yarn
count ; W =sample weigth ;L=sample length ;w =unite weigth;l=unit length.
Example
:Yarn length of a cone 150000 yds weigth
of the yarn 4lbs .
L * w
English count : Ne =------------
W * l
150000 * 1
= --------------
840 *4
= 44 Ne
L * w
Matric
count : Nm :N =---------
W*l
150000*.91*2.2*1
=---------------------------
1000*4
=75.075
Nm
L * w
Wollen : N =---------
W*l
150000*1
=--------------
256*4
=146.48 wollen
L * w
Worsted : N =---------
W*l
150000*1
=--------------
560*4
=66.44 worsted
yarn ncount or numbering system :
Direct
system : Weigth ---------Variable (gm)
Length --------- Fixed (m)
Direct
system : Tex
Danier system
Jute or spyndle
system.
System Weigth Length
Dainer ?(gm) 9000m
Jute or
spyndle ?(gm) 14400 yds/
spyndle.
Direct
system low or formula :
W * l
N
=------------
L
N=Yarn
count ;W=Sample weigth ; L=Sample length .
We know : 1
lbs =453 gm
1
yds
=0.91 m
1
m
= 1.09 yds
1 kg
=2.204 lbs
Example : yarn length of a cone 150000m weigth of
the yarn 3 kg.
W *l
L
3000(gm) *1000
=---------------------
150000
=20 Tex
W *l
Danier ; N
= ----------
L
3000(gm) *9000
=---------------------
150000
=180 D
W *l
Jute; N =
----------
L
2.204*3*100 *14400
=--------------------------
150000*1.09
=.58 lbs/spyndle
Example :Yarn length of a cone 100000 yards weigth
of the yarn 4 lbs.
W *l
L
4*453*1000
=---------------------
100000*.91
=20 Tex
W *l
Danier ; N
= ----------
L
4*453*9000
=---------------------
100000*.91
=179.20 D
W *l
SPYNDLE ; N
= ----------
L
4 *14400
=--------------
100000
=.576 lbs /spyndle
Denim
:
1.It is a
warp face twill .
2.It made cotton or cotton polyster blend.
3.It is a heavy weight twill fabric .
4.Usually the warp is coloured and weft is white .
5.It is often a left hand twill with a blue
(indigo)warp and weft white for use in apparel industry .
Fabric construction .
7’s To16’s *8’s To23’s
........................................
60*36 To 72*44
Georgette
;
1.It is a plain weave fabric .
2.It is made with
filaments yarn .
3.By using creap twist yarn for warp and weft
alternates .
4.For example even number warp &weft yarn may
be –S- twist.
5.Odd number yarns may be –Z- twist .
6.It can be a solid colour or printed .
7.It is a light weight fabric .
8.It is very drape well .
9.It originally made of silk .
Gabardine :
1.It is a tightly woven medium to heavy weight
warp faced steep or regular angle .
2.Twill weave fabric with a vary prominent .
Fabric
construction :
15’s To
39/2 *15’s To26’s
...................................................
110
*76 To 130 *80
1.It is usually a 2*1 or 2 *3 basket weave .
2.It is most common as a 2*1 half basket weave .
3.It may have a yarn dyed warp and weft white and
be called oxfort chanbray .
4.Oxfort looks like a blanced fabric .
5.Warp yarn finer and higher twist weft yarn soft
and loose weave .
6.Oxfort fabric are medium weight saft .
@
Calculation the fabric weight in kg of 10000 meter of the folloing fabric :
60 *
40
..................................*45”
120
* 80
Here ,
EPI =120
PPI=80
Warp =60 Ne
Weft =40 Ne
Weidht=45”
Warp crimp 2%
Weft crimp 3%
Warp calculation ;
Total no of warp =120
*45
=5400
Length of one warp yarn
=10000+10000*.02
=10200
Total length of warp
yarn =5400*10200
=55080000
840*60*.91---------453
gm
453
*55080000
55080000 ---------
...................................
840*60*.91
=544.02
kg
Weft calculation
:
Total no of weft =80
*10000*39.37
=31496000
Length of one weft yarn
=45+45*.03
=46.35/36
=1.2875
Total length of weft
yarn =31496000 *1.2875
=40551100yds
840 * 40 ---------------453 gm
453 *
40551100
40551100
--------------....................................
840
*40
= 546.71 kg
Total warp &weft
weight =544.02+546.71 kg
=1090.73 kg Ans
